[13] Likeallgoodthingsoftheworld, (1678) (EssayonTea, 1756) saidthatmenseemedtolosetheirstatureandcomeliness, (aboutfifteenorsixteenshillingsapound) forbadepopularconsumption, andmadeit “regaliaforhightreatmentsandentertainments, presentsbeingmadethereoftoprincesandgrandees.” -housesofLondonintheearlyhalfoftheeighteenthcenturybecame, infact, tea-houses, theresortofwitslikeAddisonandSteele, whobeguiledthemselvesovertheir “dishoftea”.Thebeveragesoonbecameanecessityoflife — -chestsintoBostonharbour.
[14] , theselfconsciousnessofcoffee, northesimperinginnocenceofcocoa.Alreadyin1711, saystheSpectator: “Iwouldthereforeinaparticularmannerrecommendthesemyspeculationstoallwell-regulatedfamiliesthatsetapartanhoureverymorningfortea, breadandbutter; andwouldearnestlyadvisethemfortheirgoodtoorderthispapertobepunctuallyservedupandtobelookeduponasapartofthetea-equipage.” SamuelJohnsondrawshisownportraitas “ahardenedandshamelessteadrinker, whofortwentyyearsdilutedhismealswithonlytheinfusionofthefascinatingplant; whowithteaamusedtheevening, withteasolacedthemidnight, andwithteawelcomedthemorning.”
[15] CharlesLamb, aprofesseddevotee, soundedthetruenoteofTeaismwhenhewrotethatthegreatestpleasureheknewwastodoagoodactionbystealth, , , calmlyyetthoroughly, andisthushumouritself, — -philosophers, — Thackeray, forinstance, andofcourse, (whenwasnottheworldindecadence?), intheirprotestsagainstmaterialism, have, toacertainextent, .
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